We just got back from an incredible family trip to Mauritius, and I wanted to share all the highlights and tips for traveling with a toddler. Mauritius is a beautiful place, but we had a few challenges along the way. Here’s a casual rundown of our adventure!
The Journey: A Rough Start
May 2024
Our flight wasn’t as smooth as we’d hoped. Initially, we aimed for the bassinet seats, but they were too close to the loos. The armrests in the bassinet row don’t all lift up—only the two middle seats do—making it difficult to get comfortable. Instead, we got row 11 CDEF, which was much better. The armrests lift up, making it easier for our toddler to lie down if the flight isn’t full. Thankfully, we had a full row to ourselves, thanks to a helpful flight attendant.
Being a bit further from the toilets was a good call since the constant traffic and light from the bathroom could have been very disruptive. People often left the door open, which meant bad smells and bright lights coming through, especially in the middle of the night. If you can, get a night flight as it really helps when traveling with a toddler—they spend most of it sleeping.
Settling In: Mon Choisy Beach
After landing at 7:43 AM, we first explored Mon Choisy Beach, just a two-minute walk from our hotel, Mon Choisy Beach Resort. The resort was great value for money but note that there are no supermarkets nearby, so you’ll need to head to Grand Baie or Pereybere for supplies.
Mon Choisy Beach is perfect for swimming, especially for toddlers—no waves, just like a giant pool! The beach is also lined with food trucks, which was super convenient.
Beach Adventures: Pereybere and Trou aux Biches
On our second day, we headed to Pereybere Beach. It’s a smaller, well-maintained beach with warmer water. While Mon Choisy feels more natural, Pereybere is tidier and has a great vibe. Pereybere gets quite packed on weekends with locals, creating a lively atmosphere with sega music and groups playing bingo.
Trou aux Biches is another great beach, bigger than Pereybere but smaller than Mon Choisy. It has a few restaurants right on the beach, which is nice if you want to splurge a bit. The swimming area is cordoned off and feels like a pool—perfect for kids. We had a lovely meal at La Plage Beach Club, which even had child seats.
For local travel, we found the red buses very economical, charging between 13 and 50 rupees to get around. Minivans labeled “contract buses” offer quicker, air-conditioned rides at slightly higher fares, but they were still really cheap. There are also loads of normal cars asking if you want a lift (they are not legal taxis) but everyone uses them. You can tell them to take you for the same price as the local bus or van, and they normally do. If you stand at a bus stop, they usually stop to ask if anyone wants a lift.
Exploring Grand Baie
Grand Baie was a delightful stop with its charming boutique shops along the waterfront and a large number of restaurants to choose from. The beach itself is lovely, but not ideal for swimming due to the many boats moored there. However, just off the beach, there are several great food trucks that get busy in the late afternoon with locals coming out of work and enjoying street food. It’s also next to the fish market, where you can see fishermen coming in from the sea and selling their fresh catch to the locals.
Beachside Bites
Chez Vanessa’s food truck at Pereybere Beach was a highlight. We loved the boulette dish (dumplings in broth), and the mini pineapples on a stick were a hit with our toddler.
At Trou aux Biches, we enjoyed a fantastic burger at La Plage Beach Club while watching a stunning sunset. The beach itself has a lot of broken coral on the shore, which didn’t bother us but is worth mentioning.
We specifically enjoyed our meal at La Rougaille Creole for some authentic Creole food. They have child seats and live music, making it a fun dining experience for the whole family.
Driving Adventures and Hidden Gems
We rented a car for around 1600 rupees a day, including a child’s car seat, sorted by our hotel. Driving gave us the freedom to explore. A scenic drive to Pointe Maurice Jetty led us to a public ferry for Île aux Cerfs. The public ferry was just 450 rupees return per person, much cheaper than private tours being advertised for nearly 3000 rupees each. Those tours included transport and food, but you can do it by yourself for a lot cheaper and not be restricted to the timings of the tour, which is way handier when traveling with a toddler.
One morning, we were lucky to find wild dolphins near Mon Choisy. We caught a local boat for 4000 rupees (around £67). My husband and I took turns swimming with the dolphins while the other stayed with our daughter. Swimming alongside these beautiful creatures was magical, even if it was exhausting!
We found the dolphins and jumped into the water, swimming alongside them. There was a mom dolphin with its baby and several others. I was so close I could touch them, but I didn’t. They swam happily while I swam beside them, just taking it all in. The experience didn’t last very long since dolphins swim fast, but it was truly special. My husband went next, then I went again. It’s exhausting but worth the magic of it.
Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden
We also visited the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden, and it was absolutely worth it. This huge park is full of fascinating, enormous trees and plants, including giant lily pads, lotus flowers, baobab trees, and even some friendly turtles. It was a great place to let our toddler roam around and explore nature.
Flic en Flac and Le Morne
The drive from Mon Choisy to Flic en Flac was beautiful, with mountains and sugar cane fields. We had an amazing lamb roti from Farata Roti on the beach, which is totally recommended. It felt really local, cheap, tasty, and was popular with local crowds.
Le Morne Beach, framed by the majestic Le Morne Brabant mountain, is a UNESCO World Heritage site with a rich history. The story goes that escaped slaves hid in the mountain from the British. When the war ended, the British came to tell them they were free, but the slaves, thinking they were about to be captured again, tragically threw themselves off the mountain.
Exploring Port Louis
Port Louis, the capital, was vibrant and bustling. The indoor market is a must-visit for street food, fresh produce, and souvenirs. We tried the Dahl Puri, a local favorite, and it was delicious and cheap. The market had lots of food stalls and fruit and veg being sold for cheap, creating a really good local vibe.
Practical Tips for Parents
Massage Time: I treated myself to two Ayurvedic massages in Pereybere at Harmony Spa and Summer Spa. Harmony Spa was a bit more comfortable overall, though both were good.
Groceries: Super U in Grand Baie has everything you need, like a massive Carrefour.
Walking Challenges: One major downside was the lack of pavements. Walking along main roads with a pram and a nearly 2-year-old felt unsafe. It’s something to consider if you plan on exploring on foot.
Final Thoughts
Overall, we loved Mauritius! The beaches were stunning, and the local culture was vibrant. The food wasn’t always to our taste, and the lack of walkable areas was a bit of a hassle, but the beauty of the island made up for it.
In Pereybere, there are a few houses right on the beach. If I were to visit again, I’d stay there. Even if you don’t have a pool, you’re right on the beach, and in Pereybere, there are still restaurants, shops, massages, and other things to visit on foot. In Mon Choisy, there’s nothing around, and you are always dependent on buses or taxis.
